Archive for November, 2009

Sloe and crab apple hedgerow jelly

Published on November 29, 2009 in Country Life, food and recipes. 0 Comments

Crossposted to SmarterFitter.com

Hedgerow Jelly on Toast

If you’ve been keeping up with this blog, then you know I’ve been increasingly obsessed with the idea of “living off the land.” One of the best places I’ve found to forage for free food is in the hedgerows, particularly those lining the fields behind our cottage.

My American friends might be wondering - what the eff is a hedgerow? A hedge or hedgerow is a line of closely spaced shrubs and tree species, planted in such a way as to form a barrier or to mark the boundary of an area. According to Wikipedia, many English hedgerows are estimated to have been in existence for more than seven hundred years, originating in the medieval period.

As it turns out, many of the shrubs, trees and bushes used to create hedgerows bear edible fruit. For example, our nearby hedges have offered blackberries, nettles, rosehips, hawthorn berries, crab apples and sloes. And I’ve heard rumors of sweet chestnuts, hazelnuts, damson plums, gooseberries and wild garlic lurking in hedges I haven’t yet discovered.

Hedgerows are looking pretty bare...

Let’s be honest: I probably wouldn’t go out of my way to actually buy sloes and crab apples, but since they’re available, I feel compelled to use of them. Sloe berries are similar to small plums, but are a too tart and astringent for eating. Crab apples are also not exactly munching food. But boil the two together with a bunch of sugar and leave to mature for a couple weeks and something quite magical happens. The sloes’ astringency subsides and their plummy flavor really comes through. The seeds in the crab apple act as a natural pectin, which gels the mixture into a nice, deep purple jelly that goes particularly well with blue cheese, as well as almond butter and (I’m guessing) regular butter, too.

Sloe Harvest

I used Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s template for hedgerow jelly, which can also be made with rowan berries, rosehips, haws or a mixture. Making hedgerow jelly isn’t a quick process. It takes time to pick the sloes and the crab apples, and anyone who’s made jam or jelly knows that it’s a slightly delicate affair involving things like jelly bags and sterile jars. But it’s all time well spent, and rewarding too: collecting food from nature and turning it into something extremely delicious, experiencing the whole process of food creation from start to finish.

Sloe and Crab Apple Hedgerow Jelly

Hedgerow Jelly in ProgressAdapted from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s crab apple and rowan jelly.

Around 1kg sloes
Around 1kg crab apples
At least 1.5kg granulated sugar
Jelly bag (or a clean cotton cloth and a big sieve)

Wash the sloes and crab apples. Cut the crab apples in half, but leave in the cores - they contribute lots of pectin, which helps set the jelly.

Put all the fruit into a large, heavy pan, along with enough water (at least 500ml) to come about halfway up the fruit. Bring to the boil and simmer, stirring occasionally and crushing the fruit against the side of the pan, until the whole mass is soft and pulpy. Tip the mixture into a jelly bag (or a large sieve lined with a cotton cloth) suspended over a bowl, and leave to drain. If you want a clear jelly, just let the liquid drip through, but if you want to get the maximum yield and don’t mind if your jelly is a little cloudy, squeeze the pulp to extract every last drop of juice.

DIY Jelly BagMeasure the juice, then transfer it to a clean pan and add 750g sugar for every litre of juice. Stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved, then boil rapidly, skimming off any scum that might rise to the surface, until you reach setting point - you can measure this with a sugar thermometer: it’s 106C. Alternatively, after about 10 minutes of hard boiling, take the pan off the heat and drop a teaspoon of the jelly on to a cold saucer, put this in the fridge for a couple of minutes, then push your finger through the jelly. If the surface wrinkles, your jelly is ready. If not, boil for five minutes longer, then repeat the test.

As soon as setting point is reached, remove the pan from the heat and pour the jelly into warm, sterilised jars. Cover with a disc of waxed paper, then a lid. Leave for a few weeks to mature before eating. The jelly should keep for up to a year.

Hedgerow Jelly on Toast

Roasted Carrot and Fennel Soup

Published on November 24, 2009 in food and recipes. 0 Comments

Crossposted to SmarterFitter.com

Roast Carrot and Fennel Soup

It’s been a while since I last posted. I’m not sure what’s been getting me down - maybe it’s the weather. We’re heading into a typically wet English winter. Wet. And dark. Sunset is at 16:06 today, which tends to eliminate all possibilities of pre- or post-dinner strolls. And the wind has been howling for days, bringing with it rain, farm smells and shifting food cravings.

Only a month ago I was a fiend for raw salads, but these days I seem to be looking for any excuse I can to turn on the oven. Roasted vegetables, hot stews and warming soups are the order of the day (and fresh baked bread to go with them). In fact, the cold season’s hearty vegetables almost make the English winter worth tolerating.

I was reminded of this a few weeks ago at The Bridge in London, where a former workmate was having a lunchtime birthday party. Like most English pubs, The Bridge’s lunch menu was a bit sparse on the vegetarian options, so I went for the soup: carrot and coriander. I have to hand it to the Bridge - their soup surprised me. It was perfect, bursting with fresh carrot and a lemony (I think) broth. It was simultaneously light and fresh but very satisfying.

The next day, I set out to recreate their carrot and coriander soup with my oodle of carrots from the Riverford Organic Box. But while searching for recipes, I found this one for Carrot Fennel Soup, which seemed to be a calling for the fennel bulb in my fridge that desperately needed a home.

Frankly, I can’t think of a better use for a fennel bulb and a surplus of carrots: this soup is dynamite! Roasting caramelizes the carrots and fennel, making for a sweet, rich soup that’s perfect for a cold winter’s day. Other bonuses: it’s easy to make, super healthy and unquestionably vegan.

Roasted Carrot and Fennel Soup

The olive oil drizzle isn’t totally necessary, but it does kick things up a notch!

2 medium fennel bulbs with fronds
1 pound carrots, quartered lengthwise
1 medium onion, quartered
1 garlic clove
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1/2 teaspoon sugar
2 1/2 cups vegetable broth
2 1/2 cups water

Olive oil drizzle:
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
2 Tbsp olive oil

Preheat oven to 450°F with rack in lowest position.

Chop enough fennel fronds to measure 1 tablespoon and reserve. Discard stalks and remaining fronds. Slice bulbs 1/4 inch thick and toss with carrots, onion, garlic, olive oil, sugar, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Spread in a 4-sided sheet pan and roast, stirring occasionally, until browned and tender, 25 to 30 minutes.

Blend half of vegetables in a blender with broth until very smooth. Transfer to a medium saucepan. Repeat with remaining vegetables and water. Thin to desired consistency with extra water and simmer 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, finely grind fennel seeds in grinder and stir into remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Serve soup drizzled with fennel oil and sprinkled with reserved fronds.

Serves 4. Per serving (without olive oil drizzle): 174 Calories, 11.3g Fat, 14.8 g Carbohydrates, 4.4g Protein, 3.7g Fiber

Mushroom Hunting with the Cotswold Fungus Group

Published on November 23, 2009 in Country Life and photos. 0 Comments

More tiny mushrooms

Yesterday morning, Mike joined me on my first mushroom foray with the Cotswold Fungus Group. My god, I have a lot to learn about fungus. But what a great time. I met some great “local people” and moreover and learned a ton (most of which I forgot, but what a good excuse to do it again, and this time with a notebook!).

Dave, the guy running the show, works for the Wiltshire Wildlife Trust to identify mushrooms growing on their protected land (Ravensroost Wood, in this case). Dave knows his fungi, from Latin names to funny stories like that of the black bulbous Daldinia Concentrica, aka King Alfred’s Cakes. The name comes from a legend that King Alfred burnt some old lady’s cakes while hiding out from the Danes in Somerset. These stories are far easier to remember than the Latin names, though I suppose you get better at that with practice.

Speaking of Latin names, Mike and I vowed to memorize at least one from our bucket of finds (by the way, real mushroom hunters carry cheesy wicker baskets rather than plastic buckets). We settled on Lepista Nuda, aka Wood Blewit, an edible mushroom which Dave claims is “the reason why God invented streaky bacon” (I think he meant that streaky bacon is the reason why God invented the Blewit, but nevermind).

Blewit amongst others

Aside from mushrooms, it was really fun meeting some real English country folk, who were a lot less “country” than I expected. In fact, everyone was really nice and their enthusiasm about fungi was contagious. I often stereotype English people as being too polite and unimpressed, but these people were the complete opposite. I guess they were all just geeks like me.

A few of the mushrooms we found were edible, including puffballs, blewits and one baby oyster mushroom (and supposedly a “goblet” mushroom, but we were dubious on that one). We cooked the ones we were sure about in some olive oil with salt and pepper and had them with a bit of balsamic and Mike’s fresh bread. They were delicious, especially the puffballs and the oyster, and made extra tasty knowing that their edibility was confirmed by an expert.

You can see more photos here: Mushroom Hunting on Flickr.

Pretty orange find

Snowy waxcaps?

Published on November 13, 2009 in Country Life and photos. 0 Comments

What kind of mushroom are you?

Otherwise known as Hygrocybe niveus, this slimy, cream-colored ’shroom was found in one of the fields of Lower Moor Farm. In fact, the whole field was covered with these little guys.

I’m not 100% sure it’s a snowy waxcap, but its appearance agrees with images found in other guides, including Rogers Mushrooms and MushroomExpert.com.

The land conditions also fit. Lower Moor Farm is a bit of lowland grass pasture owned by the Wiltshire Wildlife Trust. According to the National Trust, waxcaps love “permanent grasslands such as sheep grazed uplands and lawns.”

These long established, and sometimes ancient, grasslands are uncommon, many of which have been lost over the last 50 years. As a result, waxcaps have been in decline across Europe since the late 1940s.

They are apparently edible, but not terribly flavorsome.

What kind of mushroom are you?

SmarterFitter Interview with Austin BBQ Chef David “D.T.” Terrell

Published on November 10, 2009 in SmarterFitter and food. 0 Comments

skitched-20091108-091342.jpg

I consider the side dishes as important as the barbecue, and these sides should taste as good as the meat. I see it all as part of the same experience even though many people just grab some “Q” and start munching. Some people are not into meat and I try to be sensitive to those feelings; vegetarians are okay with me. - David “D.T.” Terrell, Austin Barbecue Company

One of last summer’s highlights was Rachel and Dave’s wedding reception at their home in Austin Texas. In addition to good friends and Fireman’s #4, the fabulous food was yet another reason to celebrate the occasion.

The party was catered by The Austin Barbecue Company, run by barbecue chef David “D.T.” Terrell. I didn’t expect much in the way of veggies from this BBQ man and his giant smoker, Dave’s spread surprised me: barbecue beans, potato salad, cole slaw, enchiladas, and plenty of tortillas and extra sauce.

Dinner: Veggie BBQ Courtesy of David "D.T." TerrellAs I sat down with my plate and took my first bite - a tender, deeply flavored butter bean - I could tell that the food had been prepared by someone who cares about quality. And as I finished my plate, I was starting to see barbecue in a whole new light.

On my second trip up to the buffet table, I had to ask David about his marvelous beans. He not only shared a few secrets about his favorite “non meat”, but also agreed to an interview for SmarterFitter in which he shared his thoughts on beans, barbecue, cajun cuisine and even Indian dal and tofu. Check it out, and if you happen to live in Texas and are a bit stumped for a Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner, why not see if David can help?

Beyond Brisket: My Interview with Austin BBQ Chef David “D.T.” Terrell

Cabbage in Tow

Published on November 7, 2009 in Country Life, cycling and food. 0 Comments

Crossposted to SmarterFitter.com

Savoy Cabbage in Tow

I went for a bike ride this morning to the Duchy Home Farm Organic “Veg Shed” and couldn’t resist this mammoth savoy cabbage. Fairly surprised it survived the nine mile journey back home.

Next time: bring a bigger backpack.

Mushroom Hunting on Lower Moor Farm

Published on November 6, 2009 in Country Life, food and freedom. 0 Comments

Crossposted to SmarterFitter.com

Edible or Not?

Tim and I were out for a walk yesterday one Lower Moor Farm when we stumbled upon an enticing little cluster of big white mushrooms. I picked a few and, after a bit of internet research and some reassurance from my neighbor, I determined that they were field mushrooms and thus, quite edible. That evening, I turned my small harvest into a tasty mushroom pizza.

Good news - I’m still alive!

I’m not only alive, but I’m totally hooked on this mushroom gathering business.

I just filled in my membership form for the Cotswold Fungus Group and look forward to following in the footsteps of my new hero, John Wright, semi-resident forager of River Cottage.

Since moving to Orchard Cottage, I’ve been loving England more and more. This country seems to embrace outdoor adventure and wild food more so than America. Is that true? It could be that when I lived in America, I wasn’t at a point in my life where I could appreciate things like mushroom hunting and blackberry picking. Or it could be that now that I’m living in the country, I’m more constantly confronted by all that nature has to offer: blackberries in the hedgerows, sloe berries in the fields, and now mushrooms.

Consequentially, I just received a new book that should help me in my free food pursuits: Food for Free by Richard Maybe. Considered by many to be “the forager’s bible”, Food for Free is an illustrated guide to over 100 edible plants, fully described with pictures and recipes. Already I’ve enjoyed reading about the plants I’ve already identified. Now I’m looking forward to finding more as the seasons progress - bring on the elderflower champaign and gooseberry jam!

Malted Grain Loaf: Best Loaf Ever?

Published on November 5, 2009 in food and recipes. 0 Comments

Crossposted to SmarterFitter.com

Malted Grain Loaf

I’ve recently become hooked on the Channel 4 series River Cottage, a program featuring Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s adventures as a downshifted cottage smallholder. One of the show’s main aims is to inspire people to live a more sustainable lifestyle by making simple changes to their eating habits. A recent episode featured baker “Ted” who demonstrated to busy mom “Sarah” how easy it is to bake bread.

I’ve been baking my own bread for a while, but my technique primarily relies on the no knead method which, while delicious, doesn’t quite reach the crusty, artisanal heights that I want it too (it also doesn’t toast well for some reason). Ted’s malted grain loaf caught my attention - it looked crusty and delicious, with lovely slashes on top and a dark, but light and fluffy interior. Last Tuesday, I decided to attempt this recipe for myself, and already I’m on to loaf #2: this stuff is incredible.

I’m posting the recipe here, but I highly recommend watching the video to get an idea of how it should look at the various stages of the baking process. It’s really simple. And if you wonder if you have time to spend 10 minutes kneading dough - you do. It takes more time to go to the store and buy crappy bread. This stuff toasts like a dream. Is it the flour? Is it the balance of ingredients? Is it the oven temperature? I’m not sure, but I’m looking forward to experimenting with different flours to find out.

Malted Grain Loaf

From The River Cottage.

500g malted grain flour (I used Doves Farm Organic Malthouse Bread Flour)
5g dried yeast
10g fine sea salt
300ml warm water
About 1 tbsp melted butter, or rapeseed or olive oil
Rye flour, for coating (optional)
Combine the flour, yeast and salt in a large mixing bowl. Add the water and mix to a rough dough (I recommend using your hands). Add the butter or oil and mix well. Adjust the consistency if you need to with a little more flour or water to make a soft, easily kneadable, sticky dough.

Turn the dough out on to a work surface and knead until smooth and satiny - roughly 10 minutes (or if you have a blender with a dough hook, use that). Cover the bowl with cling film and leave until doubled in size - anywhere from 45 minutes to 90 minutes, possibly even longer (here’s a picture of what it should look like when ready).

Deflate (’knock back’) the dough by tipping it on to the work surface and pressing all over with your fingertips. Then shape the dough into a loaf, dusting it with a little rye flour if you have some (the video demonstrates this very well). Transfer to a well-floured board, linen cloth or proving basket, lay a plastic bag over it and leave to prove, until almost doubled in size again.

Preheat the oven to 250°C/Gas Mark 9 (or at least 220°C/gas 7, if that’s your top limit), then put a pizza stone or baking tray in to heat up. Have ready, if possible, a clean gardener’s spray bottle full of water - you’ll be using this to create a steamy atmosphere in the oven, which helps the bread to rise and develop a good crust. (You can achieve the same effect with a roasting tin of boiling water placed on the bottom of the oven just before you put the loaf in - but the spray bottle is easier.)

Transfer the loaf to the hot tray, removed from the oven. Slash the top, if you wish, with a serrated knife. Put the loaf into the hot oven and give a few squirts from the spray bottle over and around it before closing the door as quickly as you can.

Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 200°C/gas 6 and continue baking until well browned and hollow-sounding when tapped - around 30 minutes.

Leave to cool completely on a rack before slicing.

Interview with Chef Rachel Demuth

Published on November 4, 2009 in Freelance Writing and food. 0 Comments

VegNews: England's Vegetarian Cookery School

VegNews.com is currently running my interview with vegetarian chef Rachel Demuth. I met Rachel earlier this year at her fantastic Fast and Delicious Cooking Course in Bath, England (click here for photos). Rachel was kind enough to share some advice with me on how to gain more speed and confidence in the kitchen, plus a delicious recipe for Slow Roasted Red Peppers with Smoky Chickpeas (reprinted below).

I can vouch for this recipe, as I’ve made it myself for a dinner party a few weeks back. The peppers were as delicious as they were simple to prepare and made the perfect compliment to my Muhammara Kebabs and Tim’s spiced couscous. I can also vouch for Rachel’s cookery school. I had so much fun and I’m still making the recipes we learned in class (just yesterday I made her roasted butternut squash and beetroot salad).

If you’re ever in Bath, and don’t have time for a whole cooking lesson, definitely check out Rachel’s restaurant. The first time I ate at Demuths, I was so wowed I bought the cookbook, visited the website, subscribed to the newsletter, and even emailed Rachel to ask how she made her phenomenal salad (yes, she wrote me back personally, with the recipe and all!). Now I consider Demuths one of the best restaurants in all of England. It’s really superb. But if you can’t get to Bath, she also has two excellent cookbooks: Green Seasons and Green World, both of which I own, and both of which have provided endless inspiration for fresh, seasonal vegetarian dishes.

Now, on to more immediate gratification: a recipe!

Slow Roasted Red Peppers with Smoky Chickpeas

Serves 4

2 large red peppers, halved and deseeded
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 (14-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
4 sage leaves, chopped
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Pre-heat the oven to 390 degrees. Oil a baking dish and rub olive oil all over the peppers. Place them, cut side up in the baking dish on top of the thyme.

Divide the chickpeas between the peppers (extras can be placed around the peppers).

Divide the tomatoes and garlic between the peppers and push in between the chickpeas. Sprinkle with the chopped sage. Mix together the paprika and olive oil and drizzle over and around the peppers.

Bake for 40 to 50 minutes. The skin of the peppers should be just starting to blacken and be soft but still holding their shape. Serve garnished with chopped parsley and season to taste.

Recipe from Green Seasons Cookbook by Rachel Demuth.

And don’t forget to check out my interview with Rachel in Vegnews: England’s Vegetarian Cookery School.

UK Driver’s License Acquired

Published on November 2, 2009 in freedom and movies. 0 Comments

And with it, a sudden desire to re-watch the Corey & Corey Hollywood blockbuster, License to Drive:

And a bonus gift from my driving instructor:

I passed!